aluminum rods yes or no?
#21
Senior Member
EXPERT BUILDER
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 267
Hummmm... it looks like its starting to rain harder on my parade very minute...?
Yes I did notice the very light discoloration on the top of this one particular piston dome only, that appears it might have brushed contact with the head. I see no real damage other than that shadow. The top ring land is not distorted, and is equal uniform all the way around. That is the first thing I checked. The ring floats free with no bind whatsoever.
I assumed the original block the first owner had may have been cut to 9.005 or even flat deck of 9.00. When I installed these in my block I have at least .010 downhole piston top from deck surface, and would adjust gasket thickness after clay measuring head to valve pocket distance.
Yes, I did have to do extensive clearancing of the block, and even went further than I normally would, expecting I might have extra expansion movement of the aluminum rods. The entire assembly has extensive numbers and notes scribed all over each piece, but I forgot to write them down before I finalized the assembly and zipped it shut. I really don't want to tear it all back down just yet, but in light of everything revealed here I just might go ahead and part this assembly out to find some good steel rods instead so I can use this shortblock without worry something is not quite right...?
Anybody want to buy a good set of 5.7" aluminum rods...?
Thanks guys for all your advice and help... I appreciate it. Jim
Yes I did notice the very light discoloration on the top of this one particular piston dome only, that appears it might have brushed contact with the head. I see no real damage other than that shadow. The top ring land is not distorted, and is equal uniform all the way around. That is the first thing I checked. The ring floats free with no bind whatsoever.
I assumed the original block the first owner had may have been cut to 9.005 or even flat deck of 9.00. When I installed these in my block I have at least .010 downhole piston top from deck surface, and would adjust gasket thickness after clay measuring head to valve pocket distance.
Yes, I did have to do extensive clearancing of the block, and even went further than I normally would, expecting I might have extra expansion movement of the aluminum rods. The entire assembly has extensive numbers and notes scribed all over each piece, but I forgot to write them down before I finalized the assembly and zipped it shut. I really don't want to tear it all back down just yet, but in light of everything revealed here I just might go ahead and part this assembly out to find some good steel rods instead so I can use this shortblock without worry something is not quite right...?
Anybody want to buy a good set of 5.7" aluminum rods...?
Thanks guys for all your advice and help... I appreciate it. Jim
#24
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: La.
Posts: 2,890
GRP's are considered one of the best on the market, too the tune of about $850.00 plus or minus. I don't think they are as strong as BME's or Childs and Alberts, but they are a cut above Manleys for sure, lot's of people run them in normally asperatered engines.
JMO
Zip.
JMO
Zip.
#25
Senior Member
EXPERT BUILDER
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 267
Ok, thanks Zip... that makes me feel a little better about my purchase.
Well... I have been wanting to get away from dirt racing and back to street romping/drag racing for quite a while now, so I will let this sit a while and mull it over before I make any rash decisions. dirt racing has just gotten SO expensive and complicated now days, it is not even fun any more... why do it if you can't enjoy it...?
The only trouble now is, that I have been away from drag racing SO long, I don't even know anything about it anymore. So, I may be back asking more dumb questions about your expertice as time goes on...
Thanks friends for your honest and respectable advice, I do appreciate it.
Jim
Well... I have been wanting to get away from dirt racing and back to street romping/drag racing for quite a while now, so I will let this sit a while and mull it over before I make any rash decisions. dirt racing has just gotten SO expensive and complicated now days, it is not even fun any more... why do it if you can't enjoy it...?
The only trouble now is, that I have been away from drag racing SO long, I don't even know anything about it anymore. So, I may be back asking more dumb questions about your expertice as time goes on...
Thanks friends for your honest and respectable advice, I do appreciate it.
Jim
#26
Junior Member
APPRENTICE
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 21
Originally Posted by hotrodharley
building my first blower engine and confused on what i should use.aluminum or steel rods.
eng. specs;
11.8 to 1 comp
736 lift rollor cam
12-71 alcohol blower[25% od]
enderle "big&ugly" alcohol injector hat
mallory super 3
brodix heads at flow shop now being done.
1;80 plantier power glide[trans brake]
4;30 rear gears
weight of car unkonown at this time
this car will be used part time race[for fun only]and showed[car shows and short cruises] when no money to race;
already have a set of "H" beam 4130 rods w/i-19 bolts;;should i sell my rods and go to aluminum rods or will my steel ones be good for how i'm using emgine?pro's and con's please
eng. specs;
11.8 to 1 comp
736 lift rollor cam
12-71 alcohol blower[25% od]
enderle "big&ugly" alcohol injector hat
mallory super 3
brodix heads at flow shop now being done.
1;80 plantier power glide[trans brake]
4;30 rear gears
weight of car unkonown at this time
this car will be used part time race[for fun only]and showed[car shows and short cruises] when no money to race;
already have a set of "H" beam 4130 rods w/i-19 bolts;;should i sell my rods and go to aluminum rods or will my steel ones be good for how i'm using emgine?pro's and con's please
too much compression for your set up,you may want to consider 8.5 or 9.0 to 1



