Fluidyne Cross Flow - 16 AN - Radiator - heat probs

Thread Tools
 
Old 11-08-2009, 04:40 AM
  #11  
wmeabates
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 134
Default

With no thermostat you can remove that bypass hose going from the intake to the water pump and plug the holes.That will keep hot water from the intake going back in the motor,might help a little.Bill.
wmeabates is offline  
Old 11-08-2009, 04:44 AM
  #12  
TopspeedLowet
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 504
Default

First off I would verify the true engine temp with an infared type gauge on the water neck and check the rear of the intake as well. If you have not verified the condition with one other temp source or by touching the hoses to affirm you have a HOT condition. Then I would start there, then trouble shoot the problem. All the advice you have been given is with the assumption that you have an over heating condition and have verified the temp gauge is correct.
Bruce
TopspeedLowet is offline  
Old 11-08-2009, 08:03 AM
  #13  
jerpazz
Junior Member
JOURNEYMAN
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 28
Default

Originally Posted by johnracer
Are you running the pullies that in your show off section pics? Looks like a really small crank pulley and a really big pump pulley. The pump may be turning waaaay too slow.....just a thought
Johnny
Yes, am running the small crank pulley - that was the largest (v-belt) crank pulley that I could find with a drive kit for the dry sump pump.
Also is the only w/p pulley due to being a short pump. I thought this was odd when I was doing the assy, but at the time justified it thru the thinking that since I didn't have any restriction, that a slower crank speed may be o.k. at the w/pump (?)

Thx J-Racer - excellent observation - I'll look into this.
jerpazz is offline  
Old 11-08-2009, 08:05 AM
  #14  
jerpazz
Junior Member
JOURNEYMAN
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 28
Default

Originally Posted by wmeabates
With no thermostat you can remove that bypass hose going from the intake to the water pump and plug the holes.That will keep hot water from the intake going back in the motor,might help a little.Bill.
Every little bit helps - I will try that as well - thx Bill.
jerpazz is offline  
Old 11-08-2009, 08:20 AM
  #15  
jerpazz
Junior Member
JOURNEYMAN
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 28
Default

Originally Posted by TopspeedLowet
First off I would verify the true engine temp with an infared type gauge on the water neck and check the rear of the intake as well. If you have not verified the condition with one other temp source or by touching the hoses to affirm you have a HOT condition. Then I would start there, then trouble shoot the problem. All the advice you have been given is with the assumption that you have an over heating condition and have verified the temp gauge is correct.
Bruce
I haven't done the infrared (I don't have one - but need to invest in one), but have definitely done the touch test. On the top hoses, it's insanely hot after driving ~200+ degrees.

For some reason the Passenger side hose is always hotter than the drivers side hose - even though they are both on the same port - am thinking it may have something to do with the water pump dir of rotation being more efficient on one side than the other (?) Since the eng bay is wide open (no inner fenders etc) - there's nothing holding the heat in, but you can definitely tell when it's getting 'too hot'. You can feel the difference in heat coming over the windshield and thru the firewall in places. At 180 - it feels like a normal 'hot engine'... at 200+ [basically after the first stop light] it's like having a hair dryer blowing in your face.

Will look into a infrared unit to be sure / or another temp guage -

thanks for your advice Bruce
jerpazz is offline  
Old 11-08-2009, 11:03 AM
  #16  
MEMRACING62
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: orland pk il
Posts: 2,399
Default

any heating / ac supply house has them cheap (infrared unit)
MEMRACING62 is offline  
Old 11-09-2009, 08:35 AM
  #17  
cepx111
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,044
Default

Originally Posted by MEMRACING62
any heating / ac supply house has them cheap (infrared unit)
Harbor freight even cheaper, I agree iwth bruce, verify the temp is the actual temp.

Have you checked to make sure you getting adequete unrestricted air flow going to the rad?

What CFM is your fan? Maybe its just not up to the task?
Try a bigger fan, or a double fan.

Another good idea and a cheap investment would be a 'high flow' aluminum W/P> I got mine on ebay $50.

Goodluck, Cp
cepx111 is offline  
Old 11-09-2009, 05:16 PM
  #18  
jerpazz
Junior Member
JOURNEYMAN
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 28
Default

Originally Posted by cepx111
Originally Posted by MEMRACING62
any heating / ac supply house has them cheap (infrared unit)
Harbor freight even cheaper, I agree iwth bruce, verify the temp is the actual temp.

Have you checked to make sure you getting adequete unrestricted air flow going to the rad?

What CFM is your fan? Maybe its just not up to the task?
Try a bigger fan, or a double fan.

Another good idea and a cheap investment would be a 'high flow' aluminum W/P> I got mine on ebay $50.

Goodluck, Cp
Thanks for the Harbor Freight tip - I'll check it out. Am already running 2 fans tho. (pull type) shroud sealed tight.. that's why am stumped. Once I verify the heat - am going to look for another crank pulley & or water pump I guess.

Did the aluminum WP make a big diff on your temps ? or mostly a weight issue ?
jerpazz is offline  
Old 11-09-2009, 08:30 PM
  #19  
cepx111
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,044
Default

As far aluminum pump goes, I couldnt tell ya, I've never ran anything but a aluminum high flow since day one on this combo.
I'm sure it will make a differnce though, I've read where they have really helped others, it's worth a shot, and it dam sure cant hurt.


You never did say if you checked for air flow obstructions going to the rad.
On hot race/street motors the radiator really needs alot of clean air.

Have you tried any cooling additives?
Are you running a 50/50 water/ antifreze mixture?

Straight water will run cooler, then you can add some red line water wetter or something like that for their anti-corrision properties.

They claim 20/30 degrees difference.

I personally seen a 15degree change with the boys mustang.


Goodluck, Cp
cepx111 is offline  
Old 11-10-2009, 08:14 AM
  #20  
jerpazz
Junior Member
JOURNEYMAN
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 28
Default

Originally Posted by cepx111
As far aluminum pump goes, I couldnt tell ya, I've never ran anything but a aluminum high flow since day one on this combo.
I'm sure it will make a differnce though, I've read where they have really helped others, it's worth a shot, and it dam sure cant hurt.


You never did say if you checked for air flow obstructions going to the rad.
On hot race/street motors the radiator really needs alot of clean air.

Have you tried any cooling additives?
Are you running a 50/50 water/ antifreze mixture?

Straight water will run cooler, then you can add some red line water wetter or something like that for their anti-corrision properties.

They claim 20/30 degrees difference.

I personally seen a 15degree change with the boys mustang.


Goodluck, Cp
Am running 50/50 coolant - have not tried addatives.

The only obstruction is my grille. I did have to tilt the radiator back a bit to keep it from hanging out of the bottom of the car (front). Tell me if this seems obstructed - or tilted to far:

this is the angle the rad sits at (fans are behind it now):


...with the hood on:


no core support or inner sheet metal - what's yer thoughts :?:
jerpazz is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -