johnracer

So, what parts do already have? If you have the 220 heads already, maybe consider a 383-388 stroker. Will make more torque and if you stay with a smallish flat tappet cam, in the range of 250-260 duration @ .050 and .550-.575 lift, will perform well in a heavy car like yours. I built one a few years back and he runs 11.40's in Denver and I think he's run 10.60's in Topeka in a 3200 lb Camaro with 4.88's and a 29.5 tire......just a thought. Just don't get caught up in the "big heads, big cam, big carb" thing, because you won't be happy with it.


Johnny

supersmurf666

thats encouraging johnracer!!!how much compression you think i need?I think i'll toss the tunnel ram and put on my strip dominator with a 750 carb.you think i need a roller cam or solid cam?I got three of ya'll telling me basically the same thing so thanks to all.

supersmurf666

oh i forgot i've got the heads and block,and the 4-speed.

johnracer

Ok then, if you don't have a rotating asm yet, I'd build a 383 -388 deal. 383 is .030 over and 388 is .040 over. 13-14:1 compression is good. This is a race only engine correct? As far as cam goes, either is fine, just keep the duration fairly short. You probably won't see much performace difference between a .575 lift, 260 duration @ .050 flat tappet and a .630 lift, 260 duration @ .050 roller. Proper break-in with a flat tappet is crucial though. Make sure you get matching springs for whichever you choose.

Of course a bigblock is always good. Just remember you'll ad another 170lbs to the car with a bbc.......and it's way cool to run good with a small block!

supersmurf666

thanks johnracer,i'll run the flat tappet(it's dam sure cheaper)and get the complete cam kit.and i do no about proper break in.do i need to run 116 race gas or 110,105???????I no to much octane is bad also.

supersmurf666

do i run 1.6 roller rockers or 1.5,s or split them or what.do i need to degree the cam or stright up?DAM I ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS!!!!do i need to put block cement in the motor?what size header?i was thinking 1and7/8 or bigger.

johnracer

110 should be fine, and yes, degree the cam in at the cam card specs and be sure to check piston to valve clearance, rod to cam clearance and rod to block clearance. Rocker ratio may depend on the cam choice. I ran a Comp 12-609-5 in a 13.5:1 406 for years and it made great torque. I had 1.6's on the intake and 1.5's on the exhaust. The 383 I told you about has a Comp 12-612-5 in it with 1.6's on both but he's lighter than you by several hundred pounds. I'd go with the smaller cam or something similar if it was mine. No, you don't need to rock the block. 1 3/4 tube is best, but no bigger than 1 7/8. Bigger tubes kill torque.

supersmurf666

thanks for all your advice

zipper06

Here is the flat tappet cam i ran, i still have it and getting ready to put into a 406" 10.5 motor in my prostreet 1998 Sonoma stepside truck.
It actually ran 6.26/6.36 on a good nite in my malibu with a 377" @ 3253lbs, but i don't have those tickets, the one i could find is 6.45. I had a 6.20 gear and i run a PG with a 5500 stall converter. I donot know how you can keep the RPM range with a 4 sp car. I have Bodix T 1 heads which is not a crap for flow rates. I think this cam would be too big @ .050 for a 4 sp car, but that JMO, but i really like the cam with the PG and a 5500 stall converter. My Protreet truck will have a 5.67 gear and PG with brake and a 4000 stall converter. I expect it too run mid 10's on Hoosier 1850 street slicks on pump gas. I think it will weigh about 2700/2800lbs.

These are just my opinions, and don't spend your money on my opinions.
The other thing is i recently built a 468" b/blk for less than $1000.00 short blk. it's in a 3700lb Biscyne on pump gas it runs 10.50's @ 126mph on hoosier street slicks

Zip.

cepx111

110 would be my first choice.

Cp