Fluidyne Cross Flow - 16 AN - Radiator - heat probs

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Old 11-11-2009, 04:43 PM
  #31  
DirkaDirka
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Originally Posted by jerpazz
yeah - sorry about that - I thought that old pic might cause confusion. I had the fans on the front to begin with - polarity pushing air through from the front, then built the fiberglass shroud for the back of the radiator and mounted them behind (in hopes that was my prob) - reversed the polarity to pull air through.

Am going to take a bit of everyones input here:
1- Infrared thermometer
2- larger crank pulley (or much smaller w/p pulley)
3- stand radiator more upright
4- use straight water and some cooling additive
5- slow down the flow
6- check into getting an aluminum/or iron hi perf pump

did I miss anyting ? - keep 'em comin - I appreciate the input.

It seems like such a small item after shoehorning this drivetrane into this car, but the heat definitely takes ALL the fun out of it. :?


Kinda hard to see from the pics if you have a fluid recovery type of catch can or not. also how are you bleeding the air out of the system....tilted radiator is more likely to have a trapped air pocket if you do not bleed air out from the highest point in the system.
racecraft --
The burp tank is mounted under the pass side fender, I've tapped the cap lever [release] and it never has air - straight fluid...
keep em comin. - Thanks everyone. !
I dont think you will need to stand the radiator upright more than it is. It looks like a tight fit already. The ones in the Hummers are more at an angle than what yours is and is a sealed radiator. We didnt have any problems with air getting trapped in them at all. I didnt see if ti had a thermostat in it or not sorry.

Also where is the burp tank in relation to the headers?? Is it close to them or no??
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:17 AM
  #32  
jerpazz
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nope - no thermostat.
the burp tank is a good 15" from the headers.
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:58 AM
  #33  
TheYellaBrick
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SUGGESTION;
Make only one change at a time so that you'll know EXACTLY what the prob was. VERY time consuming but much more valuable info.
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:35 PM
  #34  
wmeabates
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When you change the polarity on fans to make pullers out of pushers,If the blades have a curve to them they should be turned around so the inside of the curve faces the direction the air is moving toward.Bill.
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:28 PM
  #35  
zipper06
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I don't think the laid down radiator is the problem, i have a 1990 vette and it's close to 30* laid back as are most of the vettes.

Zip.
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:38 PM
  #36  
cepx111
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What kinda car is that anyway, looks kinda like a bugged eyed sprite?
I bet it hauls the mail, cool set-up.

Cp
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:08 PM
  #37  
rooski67
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Default cooling problem

A friend of mine had a similar problem. turned out he had a reverse rotation water pump on the car. Replaced it, fixed the problem. Just a thought.
Good luck
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Old 11-16-2009, 12:14 PM
  #38  
jerpazz
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Originally Posted by cepx111
What kinda car is that anyway, looks kinda like a bugged eyed sprite?
I bet it hauls the mail, cool set-up.

Cp
Cepx - its a '67 Triumph TR4 - it clicks right along, but gets wayyy too hot
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Old 11-16-2009, 12:16 PM
  #39  
jerpazz
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Default Re: cooling problem

Originally Posted by tbuket
A friend of mine had a similar problem. turned out he had a reverse rotation water pump on the car. Replaced it, fixed the problem. Just a thought.
Good luck

hmmm - interesting. Did they make a reverse flow pump for the old school 427's ? --- I would LOVE for the problem to be that easy.
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Old 11-16-2009, 05:02 PM
  #40  
zipper06
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With the rad. cap off and the engine running, if you see water fllowing thru a cross flow rad. it's not a reverse rotation pump.

JMO

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