bjuice

if the car acted the same at 400 hp as it does at 500 hp and 600 700 hp...you could get an idea..but since chassis act so differently under specific loads it would be a tough way to guess the sweet spot for Hp at the crank..

we were at the track last night..my cousins Nova didn't like 1 gun (250shot) it upset his chassis..he came back on a 2nd run pulled triggers on both guns for a total of 500 shot and the car laid down a pass..
a chassis dyno is a good tunning tool for the CHASSIS by trying to stop the hp loss thru the chassis by experimating with pionion angle,TQ converters,gear changes,tire sizes...list goes on and on...the key thing is that before most chassis dyno sessions *if done for right reasons) already know thru a motor dyno session how much optimal HP/TQ a motor will make at the crank..you will never exceed this number by chassis tweaking...but the goal is to reduce as muc hp loss thru the chassis by tweaking the chassis,drive train etc...

i do agree there may be a hint of more hp to the rear wheels by re-adusting the timing..but as my cousins senerio i mentioned above..did the motor make more hp and lost it thru the chassis for excessive flex or whatever reason, OR did the motor make LESS hp but showed more at the rear wheels beacuse the chassis is not as agitated...etc...


i guess my point is.. your trying to find max hp and optimal TQ at the CRANK at a selected timing..not to mention certain temps etc....

although there are certain indicators such as chassis dynos...its not a sure fire bet you will get the accurate ino beacuse of the variables invloved from the flywheel to the rear tires...

of course this is justs my opinion only...


By the way Richard childress has used some chasiss dyno sessions on some of their cup cars and one of the more notable findings they reported in their session was for every degree of pinion angle equaled approx 10 hp loss

i would personally start that 620ci at 31/32..and go from there..or spend $600 for a motor dyno and know 100%