chev78 wrote:
my question is this when i go to time the car it doesnt want to idle under about50 degrees and when i do back the timing down to around 34-36 (with the vacumm advance unhooked) it starts to run poorly and backfires through the carb wehn you hit the throttle.any ideas on what it could be.
I have used the method described about setting the distributor for start up. I set the balancer to 20 degrees and then set the distributor in and then after it is running adjust the timing with the light. But I have verified where TDC is at with a dial indicator before the head was installed.
From the post above, it sounds like he was using a light and couldn't get it to run correctly at 36 degrees, so if you manually set it at 20-35 degrees it would still run poorly unless it is a bad timing light. It could be the timing light (I would try a different light), not on #1 plug wire (not likely), TDC marks are incorrect for the balancer and pointer (I always verify this), and the camshaft timing to be incorrect (I have found the 0 mark on the crank gear to be stamped incorrectly and the dowel pin hole to be off. A guy had installed his cam "straight up", but it would not run the ET's expected. He had me degree his camshaft, and I found that it was 12 degrees advanced. The timing set was in error)
As bjuice stated if the timing set is correct, setting the cam in straight up in a street car you will not tell much of a difference in hp. In degreeing the camshaft, most of the time you are verifying that the pieces weren't built on a "hang over" Monday or on a "get out of here" Friday.
Other things that can cause the rought idle and popping through the carburator could be valves adjusted too tight or the carburator itself. I have found so many carburator problems corrected themselves by just verifying the timing, plugs, and wires.
It sounds like it is sluggish from the timing.
Just some information from my misfortunes,
Bill M