Blower Fuel Injection questions.
 

I currently have a 427 BBC w/ 6-71 weiand supercharger that is carburated. It is in a Mud Truck. I am running two demon blower carbs right now.
I am getting ready to rewire the complete truck and would like to convert to fuel injection. Not really sure what all is involved in changing over from carbs to injection. Be question is can I still use the blower I have and just change the fuel delivery system. Another question is for ease of installation and maintenance which is better mecahanical or electronic. I will be honest I am a little leary of electronic, but that is cause I don't have any real experience with it.
I would appreciate as much info as possible to include maybe some place to educate myself further. Thank in advance for all your wisdom.

Yes you can still use the blower, the hat will just bolt in place of the carb adapter.

If it's a drag car, then a mechanical system will be just fine, if you drive it on the street a bunch then mechanical is a real pain.

As far as the fuel system, it's a pretty simple deal, you will have a mechanical pump run off the engine, tank up front, higher than the pump but lower than the nozzles, a high speed bypass, idle check and some returns to the tank.

I started out learning by buying Hilborns book, reading and applying what I learned until I had my own system in place for determining a starting tune-up. Blower cars aren't too bad as long as you know what the blower produces in air flow.

Best bet would be to buy the system from enderle, they will take all of your information, flow the fuel system and set you up with a decent baseline tune-up.

I will no longer give a starting point to people, did it once only to find out the guy was using worn out junk he bought off ebay that didn't even come close to factory flow numbers so the engine was lean and burnt up. I ended up being the A-Hole that didn't what I was doing.

Where you burning gas or alky?

If you go to a mech injection, burn alky and dont look back, your carbs are making less power but more forgiving to the engine. The hat is going to make more power if properly tuned.

Thanks for the help, to KWKRacing, I am running pump gas. To ccper721p I appreciate the knowledge. I was on the Hilborn site last night and found some pretty good info. I do understand about the not recommending a set up point. This is an offroad truck, the tank is in the stock location. Under the bed between the rails, am I going to have to move it. Do you have to run a mechanical pump?
Another question is, my engine currently is without any sensors on it other than those needed to run gauges. Hilborn has two different set ups. If I go with the completely electronic how much of a pain in the butt is it to get and install all the sensors, this may sound silly, but with a blower motor where does the MAP sensor go since there is no tube between the butterflies and the opening to the supercharger. Thanks again for all your help. I truly do appreciate it.

I'm with KWKRacing, change to alcohol, cost about the same as 93 octane and your motor will love it.
Mechanical pump yes you have to run a mechacical pump with any type of injection, be it a hat or stacks or toilet bowl. Most nozzles are flowed and rated at 60 lbs pressure WOT and mechanical pumps put out up to 100 lbs at 4,000 rpm's or 50% of motor rpm's.
It seems to me that running a blower on a mud truck cannot be easy, keeping the mud and water off the blower drive belts and pulleys. I've got a 3" Crower stacks injection for a B/BLK Chevy going on ebay this week that came off a mud truck setup for alcohol and nitrous with 8 individual K&N filters. That too me would be a better setup than running a blower especially in the mud, and i run blowers also.

JMO

Zip.

zipper06,

My truck is a dual purpose truck, street and mud. I have always wanted a blower motor, the wife said I could build the truck so I found one an put it in. Unfortunetly I am learning the exspensive way...as I go. I have so very much to learn. I appreciate you guys helping out here. I just hope that you do get tired of my silly novice questions.
I have been thinking of converting to alky, due to no innercooler on my engine. When I get back from Iraq I am planning on rewiring my 96 Ford F150, which has the Blown BBC in it. So I am trying to get all my ducks in a row. With the injection hat I can get a filter that will bolt to the front of it when I am in the mud to keep all the bad crap out of the engine. Thank you so very much for all your knowledge and advice I truly do appreciate it. If you have any more I will be glad to listen. Thanks again

We are talking about two different things.

Mechanical injection and Electronic injection

THis is not a 100 percent true but lets draw the line, Mechanical is for all out hp. Electronic is for ease to street a engine to be calm and cruise around.

First off, think about if you can afford to upgrade the driveline to a 1000-1500hp blown alky injected bbc mech injected engine. WHen that input shaft, axle shaft or driveshaft lets go, engine over revs for a sec and boom! This does require a mechanical pump.

Im guessing your electronic injection gas engine will make atleast 200 hp that you can drive around on the street. Considering fuel and boost will have to be way down.

Your carbs right now sound like your happy medium for hp and parts and what you are trying to do.

Also do you h ave a racing blower or a street blower?

This line here changes the whole enviroment. My truck is a dual purpose truck, street and mud. You cannot successfully run a hat or anykind of mechanical injection on the street, even an EFI will not run thru a blower without a lot of problems and a ton of money. You already have the best setup, change to alcohol carbs, you can leave the tank where it's at and use an alcohol friendly fuel pump. True there's lots of things you could do to run injection, but by the time you got it right your wife would probably want a divorce for all the money you will have to spend to get it right.

Thanks for being in IRAQ your services are well respected by me. My grandson is on his 4th tour now in Afganistan, as a Helicopter pilot with the Army Airborne Spec. services, he's career, been in both Iraq and Afganistan.

JMO

Zip.

Thanks guys for the help, But I am alittle confused.

I have been reading on the Hilborn site a bit. From what I have read and what I plan to do with the truck I was thinking of EFI. Zipper why do you say that even a EFI Hat will be no good on the street. I know right now that the carbs are the easy way, but as soon as I get into any articulation the carbs don't like it a bit. Flat they are great, and have been thinking alky to help make sure the engine stays cool.
So what is going to be so difficult about installing a Hilborn EFI system, also I have had the truck on a chassis dyno and it made 338hp, and 378 Torque, at 5000 rpm with 10lbs boost.
I am not trying to be difficult here I just want to understand. I thought that Injection would get rid of the hard cold starts and make it better for on the trails and in the MUD. Keeping water and mud out the system is a givin and understand that will be a pain. But other than that could you explain more please. Thanks for all of your help.

Foot note: Just so there is no confusion, I am supporting our troops as a Contract. I am no longer enlisted myself. I am very thankful for all our service members and their sacrifies. Thanks to all of them.

Next problem... 338 hp out of a 427 bbc and 6-71 blower? Have you checked to see if there are any rotors in that blower case? LOL...

Is this a bone stock engine with a old detroit 6-71? Fuel injection is not going to work unless you have a good high air flowing set up. Most mild sbc are capable of a easy 600hp with a 6-71 and pump gas.

Im not trying to be a pickle but we have some base stuff to get right first.

Tell us your specs of all ur parts please

Not to be critical, but KWK is right, that's no HP at all, asumming 25% loss with drive train that's less than 500 hp from the engine at the flywheel. Going to alcohol or injection is not going to make it easier to start when cold, running thru a blower they are always harder to start and gas starts a lot easier than alcohol no matter what system you run. I'm also having trouble understanding how you had 10 lbs of boost and only made that little of HP. I hope you're not taking someone word on the boost, like the person you bought the motor from.

Zip.

Understand, I will do my best but I do not have all the engine stuff here with me in Iraq, So I am not going to know the cam specs.
Engine is a .030 over 427, It was a kit engine from PAW (Performance Automotive Warehouse) According to what I can remember, the pistons are 7.3 to 1. It has cast iron heads, but I do not know the CC or CFM of the runners. I do know that the headers that are on the engine now are restricting the engine, but they were the biggest that would fit without custom layout. They are 1 7/8 primaries to a 2 1/4 out the back, Super 44 flowmaster mufflers.
Trans is a well built 700R4, Transfer case is NP231, rear end is Currie 9"+ with 5.13 gears. Wheels are 39.5x18 Boggers on 15x14 steel wheels. I am sure that you need much more info than this but That is all I can remember off the top of my head. Oh it has a MSD 6AL box, MSD Distributer (Not sure which one) Mallory Coil (again not sure which one)
Carbs are 650 Demon Blower Carbs.

I only put it on the Dyno to get the F/A mixture right, so we only went to 5000 rpm, I don't remember what jet size we used, but I know that we changed them.
I had assumed that I was losing HP from all the driveline parts and the weight of the tires and wheels. Them shoes be very heavy.
Let me know if you need more than this to help and I will do my best to get it for you. Thanks again for putting up with such a novice to this stuff. I am enjoying the conversation and the knowledge

The below is from the PAW website, I am pretty sure this is the kit that was purchased by the original onwer. Hope this helps.




BLOCK - 4-bolt main 427 seasoned block bored oversize. Block is hot tanked, custom honed, dry decked, line honed, new cam bearings installed. Engine block is painted inside Rustoleum to aid in a quicker oil return. Brass freeze plugs installed. The Outside of the block is painted with your choice of factory colors.
CYLINDER HEADS - New RHS™ Pro Action cast iron rectangular port cylinder heads castings feature 320cc intake runners. Stainless 2.250 & 1.88 valves. New perf valve springs which will handle up to a .600 lift cam. (Larger cams or solid lifter cams will require optional valve springs at extra cost.)
PISTONS - Forged supercharger pistons.
RINGS - Premium Speed-Pro moly rings.
RODS - P.A.W. 6.135" high performance connecting rods which have been shop-peened, checked for straightness. Resized on the big end and fitted with high performance 3/8" chrome moly rod bolts for maximum strength and performance.
CAMSHAFT - Your choice of a new P.A.W. / SSI hydraulic cam to match application.
LIFTERS - New P.A.W. hydraulic flat tappet to match your cam.
CRANKSHAFT - Factory steel crankshaft precision finished at .010 under on both mains & rods journals and machined for dual keyways!
BEARINGS - New Clevite M77 - Top quality rods and mains bearings.
TIMING CHAIN SET - New P.A.W. double roller timing chain set.
GASKETS - Fel-Pro engine gaskets set along with a pair of SCE ICS Titan copper head gaskets with stainless O-ring wire.
OIL PUMP - New P.A.W. high-volume oil pump to provide maximum protection.
PUSHRODS - New P.A.W. 3/8" chrome moly high performance pushrods.
BALANCED - Electronically balanced rotating assembly, pistons pressed on to rods. Advise salesman if using flex plate or flywheel.
DAMPER - Special damper for use on supercharged engines with dual keyway.
ROCKER ARMS - New P.A.W./SSI long slot rocker arms.
SUPERCHARGER - Complete 6-71 supercharger kit fully polished including blower manifold, & dual 4BBL carb adapter. HD 8mm drive, kit will accommodate 2 “V” groove accessory pulley. 8-71 supercharger available at an additional cost.